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31 December 2009
For nearly three times as long as the British held Hong Kong, the Portuguese ruled Macau, 60 km further west. December this year marks the tenth anniversary of the Portuguese departure, and of Macau’s establishment as a Special Administrative Region of China. A decade on and tourism is on the rise, but not to the detriment of Macau’s unique appeal. Much has been made of the fact that more money is now gambled in Macau than in Las Vegas, but comparing Macau to Vegas is like comparing Blackpool to Paris, simply because they both have a tower. Yes there are casinos, but there are other, far better reasons to visit Macau. The Portuguese-dominated town centre mixes beautifully with other Chinese influences. Wide, bright piazzas invite lengthy sojourns at street-corner cafes, where sardines, olives and chorizo grace the menus, while off the squares spring alleyways filled with Chinese shops selling everything from furniture to chickens. While Hong Kong ripped down many of its old colonial buildings, Macau’s relaxed Mediterranean attitude has left many great reminders of its colonial past. Over 20 buildings and monuments of Portuguese and Chinese origin - including temples, churches, a theatre, fortress and even a lighthouse - comprise the Historic Centre, earning it UNESCO World Heritage status in 2005. The centrepiece is the facade of St Paul’s, all that is left of a 16th century Jesuit cathedral, though older still is the A-Ma Temple, built by the Cantonese in the late 1400s, where crowds make offerings under smoking coils of incense so huge that each takes two or three weeks to burn.
Surrounding the history is a city as tall and gleaming as any in modernising Asia. Take the 330-metre, ultra-modern Macau world’s highest bungee jump and hurtle headfirst past the diners in the revolving restaurant below. If all this gets too much, then just 20 minutes away is Coloane Island, complete with several safe swimming beaches, golf courses, relaxing gardens and numerous hiking trails, one of which leads to the 20-metre tall A-Ma statue on Coloane Hill, the island’s highest point. Food and drink are also integral to Macanese culture, with strong Mediterranean influences bequeathed by the Portuguese. Both the Chinese and Portuguese share an enthusiasm for fresh produce, especially seafood, and the blend of cooking traditions creates a delicious fusion that you won’t find anywhere else. Speciality dishes include Tacho, a hearty stew of meat and Chinese vegetables, and Linguado Macau (fried sole), while Chinese favourites such as Peking duck and Dim Sum are always available. The other ‘must try’ local favourite is pasteis de nata - Portuguese egg tarts. With all there is to see, Macau merits at least a weekend visit, making it a serious rival to Hong Kong as a stopover destination. The new wave of hotels are as good as Hong Kong’s too, and with many boasting excellent luxury spas, it’s as easy to unwind in Macau as it is to feel the buzz of its bustling markets or chase the shadows of its Portuguese past.
To talk to an expert about a trip to Macau, call 020 7838 5967 or email [email protected].
